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The place to go for the world's best warbird-watching? Warbirds over Wanaka, New Zealand.

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FRIDAY, APRIL 9, WANAKA, NEW ZEALAND. The little South Island town seemed charged, as if a thunderstorm were imminent. It was barely 7 a.m., but the traffic was already thickening and the hotel’s restaurant brimmed with customers, some wearing aviation ball caps, harrying the waitresses for their checks: “We gotta go! Can you please hurry up?”

Several miles away, in the display area at the Wanaka airfield, stood the cause of all the hubbub: an assembly of some of the world’s most prized warbirds. A World War I Sopwith Camel. A World War II Supermarine Spitfire. A cold war Lavochkin La-9. British Vampires, Russian Polikarpovs, Chinese Nanchangs, American Kittyhawks…

Today was the opening day of the Warbirds Over Wanaka airshow. The show originated with the aviation obsessions of Tim Wallis, a pilot who had made a fortune from a helicopter-based deer hunting operation he started in New Zealand in the 1970s. The money enabled Wallis to fulfill a long-held dream: In 1984, he bought a North American P-51D Mustang. Thus began what would evolve into the Alpine Fighter Collection, a group of vintage warbirds from around the world, almost all of which Wallis has had restored to flying condition.

In 1988 Wallis organized a one-day Warbirds on Parade show in Wanaka, his hometown. He showed off his four aircraft, as well as vintage gems from other collectors. The show was a success, attracting some 14,000 visitors and inspiring Wallis to hold warbird shows every other year at Wanaka ever since.

This year’s show offered about 80 warbirds, including 12 presently in Wallis’ collection. On the opening day, some 20,000 visitors roamed the airfield and took in ground displays and practice flights. The show proper began the next day. Against a vista of snow-dusted mountains, and with music from The Terminator blaring, the show’s celebrity guest, Apollo 11 astronaut Buzz Aldrin, opened the program: “Gentlemen! Start your engines.”

First up, roaring low and close to the grandstand: a pair of World War II warriors, a Curtiss P-40 Kittyhawk fighter-bomber and a Vought F4U-1 Corsair fighter. “It has always been a big dream of mine to bring a Corsair and a Kittyhawk to the show,” Wallis explains, “because they are such a big part of the New Zealand air force heritage and the war in the Pacific.” Royal New Zealand Air Force pilots also flew Douglas SBD Dauntless dive bombers and Grumman TBF Avenger torpedo bombers in the Pacific theater, and conducted maritime reconnaissance missions in Lockheed Hudson bombers and Consolidated and Boeing Catalina flying boats.

Wallis is keen to get the word out about New Zealand’s long history of military air service, which dates back to 1913. (This is a sensitive issue: In 2001 Prime Minister Helen Clark cut the RNZAF’s air combat capability, grounding the service’s 17 McDonnell Douglas A-4K Skyhawk fighters and 17 Aermacchi MB-339CB jet trainers.) At this year’s show, the RNZAF represented itself with a P-3K Orion reconnaissance aircraft, a C-130 Hercules transport, and a UH-1 Iroquois helicopter.

The Wanaka show also paid homage to the earliest days of New Zealand aviation, exhibiting a replica of an aircraft composed of bamboo tubing, fabric-covered wings, pram wheels, and a propeller whose two blades looked like oven trays. The aircraft portrayed had been designed and constructed at the turn of the century by New Zealander Richard Pearse. It embodied many remarkably farsighted concepts: a monoplane design, propeller blades whose pitch could be varied (at least on the ground), wing flaps, an aft-mounted elevator, and a tricycle undercarriage with steerable nosewheel. Pearse had even designed and built his own internal combustion engine. The exhibit informed showgoers that Pearse had first flown the craft on March 31, 1903, in Waitohi on the South Island; he went about 50 yards. Unlike the Wright brothers, though, Pearse did not have his flight photographed. He later opined that the flight had not been sustained and controlled, as the Wrights’ first flights were eight months later.

The show also offered an example of modern New Zealand aviation: a formation of Crescos—cropdusters produced in New Zealand by Pacific Aerospace Corporation in the late 1970s. This particular group was owned by the New Zealand flying company Wanganui Aero Work.

What sets Wanaka apart, though, are more exotic spectacles, such as a simultaneous takeoff of five Russian Yakovlev Yak-52s and five 1960s Nanchang CJ-6s—Chinese-built versions of the Yak-18 trainer.

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